by Rudyard
Kipling
As I came through the Desert thus it was—
As I came through the Desert.
— The City of Dreadful Night
Somewhere in the Other World, where there are books and pictures and
plays and shop windows to look at, and thousands of men who spend their lives
in building up all four, lives a gentleman who writes real stories about the
real insides of people; and his name is Mr Walter Besant. But he will insist
upon treating his ghosts— he has published half a workshopful of them—with
levity. He makes his ghost-seers talk familiarly, and, in some cases, flirt outrageously,
with the phantoms. You may treat anything, from a Viceroy to a Vernacular
Paper, with levity; but you must behave reverently toward a ghost, and
particularly an Indian one.
There are, in this land, ghosts who take the
form of fat, cold, pobby corpses, and hide in trees near the roadside till a traveller
passes. Then they drop upon his neck and remain. There are also terrible ghosts
of women who have died in child-bed. These wander along the pathways at dusk,
or hide in the crops near a village, and call seductively. But to answer their
call is death in this world and the next. Their feet are turned backward that
all sober men may recognize them. There are ghosts of little children who have
been thrown into wells. These haunt well curbs and the fringes of jungles, and
wail under the stars, or catch women by the wrist and beg to be taken up and
carried. These and the corpse ghosts, however, are only vernacular articles and
do not attack Sahibs. No native ghost has yet been authentically reported to have
frightened an Englishman; but many English ghosts have scared the life out of
both white and black.
Nearly every other
Station owns a ghost. There are said to be two at Simla, not counting the woman
who blows the bellows at Syree dâk-bungalow [1] on the Old Road;
Mussoorie has a house haunted of a very lively Thing; a White Lady is supposed
to do night-watchman round a house in Lahore; Dalhousie says that one of her
houses ‘repeats’ on autumn evenings all the incidents of a horrible horse- and-precipice
accident; Murree has a merry ghost, and, now that she has been swept by
cholera, will have room for a sorrowful one; there are Officers’ Quarters in
Mian Mir whose doors open without reason, and whose furniture is guaranteed to
creak, not with the heat of June but with the weight of Invisibles who come to
lounge in the chairs; Peshawur possesses houses that none will willingly rent;
and there is something—not fever—wrong with a big bungalow in Allahabad. The
older Provinces simply bristle with haunted houses, and march phantom armies
along their main thoroughfares.
Some of the dâk-bungalows
on the Grand Trunk Road have handy little cemeteries in their compound—witnesses
to the ‘changes and chances of this mortal life’ in the days when men drove
from Calcutta to the Northwest. These bungalows are objectionable places to put
up in. They are generally very old, always dirty, while the khansamah [2] is as ancient as
the bungalow. He either chatters senilely, or falls into the long trances of
age. In both moods he is useless. If you get angry with him, he refers to some
Sahib dead and buried these thirty years, and says that when he was in that
Sahib’s service not a khansamah in the Province could touch him. Then he
jabbers and mows and trembles and fidgets among the dishes, and you repent of
your irritation.
In these dâk-bungalows,
ghosts are most likely to be found, and when found, they should be made a note
of. Not long ago it was my business to live in dâk-bungalows. I never inhabited
the same house for three nights running, and grew to be learned in the breed. I
lived in Government-built ones with red brick walls and rail ceilings, an
inventory of the furniture posted in every room, and an excited snake at the threshold
to give welcome. I lived in ‘converted’ ones—old houses officiating as dâk-bungalows—where
nothing was in its proper place and there wasn’t even a fowl for dinner. I
lived in second-hand palaces where the wind blew through open-work marble
tracery just as uncomfortably as through a broken pane. I lived in dâk-bungalows
where the last entry in the visitors’ book was fifteen months old, and where
they slashed off the curry-kid’s head with a sword. It was my good luck to meet
all sorts of men, from sober traveling missionaries and deserters flying from
British Regiments, to drunken loafers who threw whisky bottles at all who
passed; and my still greater good fortune just to escape a maternity case.
Seeing that a fair proportion of the tragedy of our lives out here acted itself
in dâk-bungalows, I wondered that I had met no ghosts. A ghost that would
voluntarily hang about a dâk-bungalow would be mad of course; but so many men have
died mad in dâk-bungalows that there must be a fair percentage of lunatic
ghosts.
In due time I found
my ghost, or ghosts rather, for there were two of them. Up till that hour I had
sympathized with Mr Besant’s method of handling them, as shown in ‘The Strange
Case of Mr. Lucraft and Other Stories.’ I am now in the Opposition.
We will call the
bungalow Katmal dâk-bungalow. But that was the smallest part of the
horror. A man with a sensitive hide has no right to sleep in dâk-bungalows. He
should marry. Katmal dak- bungalow was old and rotten and unrepaired. The floor
was of worn brick, the walls were filthy, and the windows were nearly black with
grime. It stood on a bypath largely used by native Sub-Deputy Assistants of all
kinds, from Finance to Forests; but real Sahibs were rare. The khansamah,
who was nearly bent double with old age, said so.
When I arrived,
there was a fitful, undecided rain on the face of the land, accompanied by a
restless wind, and every gust made a noise like the rattling of dry bones in
the stiff toddy palms outside. The khansamah completely lost his head on
my arrival. He had served a Sahib once. Did I know that Sahib? He gave me the name
of a well-known man who has been buried for more than a quarter of a century,
and showed me an ancient daguerreotype of that man in his prehistoric youth. I
had seen a steel engraving of him at the head of a double volume of Memoirs a
month before, and I felt ancient beyond telling.
The day shut in and the
khansamah went to get me food. He did not go through the pretence of
calling it ‘khana’—man’s victuals. He said ‘ratub,’ and that
means, among other things, ‘grub’—dog’s rations. There was no insult in his
choice of the term. He had forgotten the other word, I suppose.
While he was cutting
up the dead bodies of animals, I settled myself down, after exploring the dâk-bungalow.
There were three rooms, beside my own, which was a corner kennel, each giving
into the other through dingy white doors fastened with long iron bars. The
bungalow was a very solid one, but the partition walls of the rooms were almost
jerry-built in their flimsiness. Every step or bang of a trunk echoed from my
room down the other three, and every footfall came back tremulously from the
far walls. For this reason I shut the door. There were no lamps, only candles
in long glass shades. An oil wick was set in the bathroom.
For bleak,
unadulterated misery that dâk-bungalow was the worst of the many that I had
ever set foot in. There was no fireplace, and the windows would not open; so a
brazier of charcoal would have been useless. The rain and the wind splashed and
gurgled and moaned round the house, and the toddy palms rattled and roared. Half
a dozen jackals went through the compound singing, and a hyena stood afar off
and mocked them. A hyena would convince a Sadducee of the Resurrection of the
Dead—the worst sort of Dead. Then came the ratub—a curious meal, half
native and half English in composition—with the old khansamah babbling
behind my chair about dead and gone English people, and the wind-blown candles
playing shadow-bo-peep with the bed and the mosquito-curtains. It was just the
sort of dinner and evening to make a man think of every single one of his past
sins, and of all the others that he intended to commit if he lived.
Sleep, for several
hundred reasons, was not easy. The lamp in the bath-room threw the most absurd
shadows into the room, and the wind was beginning to talk nonsense.
Just when the
reasons were drowsy with blood-sucking I heard the regular—’Let—us—take—and—heave—him—over’
grunt of doolie-bearers [3] in the compound. First
one doolie came in, then a second, and then a third. I heard the doolies dumped
on the ground, and the shutter in front of my door shook. ‘That’s someone
trying to come in,’ I said. But no one spoke, and I persuaded myself that it was
the gusty wind. The shutter of the room next to mine was attacked, flung back,
and the inner door opened. ‘That’s some Sub- Deputy Assistant,’ I said, ‘and he
has brought his friends with him. Now they’ll talk and spit and smoke for an
hour.’
But there were no
voices and no footsteps. No one was putting his luggage into the next room. The
door shut, and I thanked Providence that I was to be left in peace. But I was
curious to know where the doolies had gone. I got out of bed and looked into the
darkness. There was never a sign of a doolie. Just as I was getting into bed
again, I heard, in the next room, the sound that no man in his senses can
possibly mistake—the whir of a billiard ball down the length of the slates when
the striker is stringing for break. No other sound is like it. A minute
afterwards there was another whir, and I got into bed. I was not frightened—indeed
I was not. I was very curious to know what had become of the doolies. I jumped
into bed for that reason.
Next minute I heard the double click of a cannon
and my hair sat up. It is a mistake to say that hair stands up. The skin of the
head tightens and you can feel a faint, prickly, bristling all over the scalp.
That is the hair sitting up.
There was a whir and
a click, and both sounds could only have been made by one thing—a billiard
ball. I argued the matter out at great length with myself; and the more I
argued the less probable it seemed that one bed, one table, and two chairs—all
the furniture of the room next to mine—could so exactly duplicate the sounds of
a game of billiards. After another cannon, a three- cushion one to judge by the
whir, I argued no more. I had found my ghost and would have given worlds to
have escaped from that dak- bungalow. I listened, and with each listen the game
grew clearer. There was whir on whir and click on click. Sometimes there was a double
click and a whir and another click. Beyond any sort of doubt, people were
playing billiards in the next room. And the next room was not big enough to
hold a billiard table!
Between the pauses
of the wind I heard the game go forward—stroke after stroke. I tried to believe
that I could not hear voices; but that attempt was a failure.
Do you know what
fear is? Not ordinary fear of insult, injury or death, but abject, quivering
dread of something that you cannot see—fear that dries the inside of the mouth
and half of the throat—fear that makes you sweat on the palms of the hands, and
gulp in order to keep the uvula at work? This is a fine Fear—a great cowardice,
and must be felt to be appreciated. The very improbability of billiards in a dâk-bungalow
proved the reality of the thing. No man—drunk or sober—could imagine a game at billiards,
or invent the spitting crack of a ‘screw-cannon.’
A severe course of dâk-bungalows
has this disadvantage—it breeds infinite credulity. If a man said to a
confirmed dâk-bungalow-haunter: ’There is a corpse in the next room, and there’s
a mad girl in the next but one, and the woman and man on that camel have just
eloped from a place sixty miles away,’ the hearer would not disbelieve because
he would know that nothing is too wild, grotesque, or horrible to happen in a dâk-bungalow.
This credulity,
unfortunately, extends to ghosts. A rational person fresh from his own house
would have turned on his side and slept. I did not. So surely as I was given up
as a bad carcass by the scores of things in the bed because the bulk of my
blood was in my heart, so surely did I hear every stroke of a long game at billiards
played in the echoing room behind the iron-barred door. My dominant fear was
that the players might want a marker. It was an absurd fear; because creatures
who could play in the dark would be above such superfluities. I only know that
that was my terror; and it was real.
After a long, long
while the game stopped, and the door banged. I slept because I was dead tired.
Otherwise I should have preferred to have kept awake. Not for everything in
Asia would I have dropped the door-bar and peered into the dark of the next
room.
When the morning
came, I considered that I had done well and wisely, and inquired for the means
of departure.
‘By the way, khansamah,’
I said, ‘what were those three doolies doing in my compound in the night?’
‘There were no
doolies,’ said the khansamah.
I went into the next
room and the daylight streamed through the open door. I was immensely brave. I
would, at that hour, have played Black Pool with the owner of the big Black
Pool down below.
‘Has this place
always been a dâk-bungalow?’ I asked.
‘No,’ said the khansamah.
‘Ten or twenty years ago, I have forgotten how long, it was a billiard room.’
‘A how much?’
‘A billiard room for
the Sahibs who built the Railway. I was khansamah then in the big house
where all the Railway-Sahibs lived, and I used to come across with brandy-shrab.
These three rooms were all one, and they held a big table on which the Sahibs played
every evening. But the Sahibs are all dead now, and the Railway runs, you say,
nearly to Kabul.’
‘Do you remember
anything about the Sahibs?’
‘It is long ago, but
I remember that one Sahib, a fat man and always angry, was playing here one
night, and he said to me: ‘Mangal Khan, brandy-pani do,’ and I filled
the glass, and he bent over the table to strike, and his head fell lower and
lower till it hit the table, and his spectacles came off, and when we—the
Sahibs and I myself—ran to lift him he was dead. I helped to carry him out.
Aha, he was a strong Sahib! But he is dead and I, old Mangal Khan, am still
living, by your favour.’
That was more than
enough! I had my ghost—a first-hand, authenticated article. I would write to
the Society for Psychical Research—I would paralyze the Empire with the news!
But I would, first of all, put eighty miles of assessed crop land between
myself and that dâk-bungalow before nightfall. The Society might send their
regular agent to investigate later on.
I went into my own
room and prepared to pack after noting down the facts of the case. As I smoked
I heard the game begin again,—with a miss in balk this time, for the whir was a
short one.
The door was open
and I could see into the room. Click—c1ick! That was a cannon. I entered
the room without fear, for there was sunlight within and a fresh breeze
without. The unseen game was going on at a tremendous rate. And well it might,
when a restless little rat was running to and fro inside the dingy
ceiling-cloth, and a piece of loose window-sash was making fifty breaks off the
window-bolt as it shook in the breeze!
Impossible to
mistake the sound of billiard balls! Impossible to mistake the whir of a ball
over the slate! But I was to be excused. Even when I shut my enlightened eyes
the sound was marvellously like that of a fast game.
Entered angrily the
faithful partner of my sorrows, Kadir Baksh.
‘This bungalow is
very bad and low-caste! No wonder the Presence was disturbed and is speckled.
Three sets of doolie-bearers came to the bungalow late last night when I was
sleeping outside, and said that it was their custom to rest in the rooms set
apart for the English people! What honour has the khansamah? They tried
to enter, but I told them to go. No wonder, if these Oorias [4] have been here,
that the Presence is sorely spotted. It is shame, and the work of a dirty man!’
Kadir Baksh did not
say that he had taken from each gang two annas for rent in advance, and then,
beyond my earshot, had beaten them with the big green umbrella whose use I
could never before divine. But Kadir Baksh has no notions of morality.
There was an
interview with the khansamah, but as he promptly lost his head, wrath
gave place to pity, and pity led to a long conversation, in the course of which
he put the fat Engineer- Sahib’s tragic death in three separate stations—two of
them fifty miles away. The third shift was to Calcutta, and there the Sahib died
while driving a dogcart.
If I had encouraged
him the khansamah would have wandered all through Bengal with his
corpse.
I did not go away as
soon as I intended. I stayed for the night, while the wind and the rat and the
sash and the window-bolt played a ding-dong ‘hundred and fifty up.’ Then the
wind ran out and the billiards stopped, and I felt that I had ruined my one
genuine, hall-marked ghost story.
Had I only stopped
at the proper time, I could have made anything out of it.
That was the
bitterest thought of all!
[1] A
government building used as a hostel by travelling officials.
[2] Khansamah
– a cook/janitor
[3]
Stretcher-bearers
[4] An
ethnic group; natives of Orissa.